Author Topic: Midge quill pearl  (Read 2001 times)

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Offline troutphisher

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Midge quill pearl
« on: December 03, 2008, 14:32:03 PM »
Hook: Dai-Riki #135 size 22

Thread: Black Uni-Thread 8/0

Body: Stripped peacock eye quill

Thorax: Black superfine dubbing

Wing case: Midge pearl flash 10 strands

Legs: Midge pearl flash (5) per side

This is basically a variant on the Juju bee midge Ralph showed me. I don't have the original materials recipe for the fly, I ordered some, but didn't want to wait for the material to tie a few up for fishing tomorrow.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2008, 14:34:29 PM by troutphisher »
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Offline benflyfishn

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2008, 14:46:09 PM »
Nice tie TP. Very similar to the stripper but with wing case and legs. Will have to look up a JuJu bee. Thanks for the look and recipe. 0--0
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Offline CR

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2008, 21:10:25 PM »
Like the flash wingcase split and used for the legs, interesting idea for low build on the head. Nice tie.

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Offline glassfisher

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2008, 23:20:27 PM »
Cool fly TP, let me know how it works on the SOHO.
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Offline Rhody

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2008, 11:43:38 AM »
Having trouble with the stripped peacock quill. o-o What size peacock stem? When I use the eraser to strip the feather down, it seems so fine that I am breaking it, wondering what size of stem?

Also, having trouble getting my wrapping of the quill to look this good. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rhody
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J.M.

Offline CR

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2008, 15:53:51 PM »
I usually use peacock from several inches below an "eye" as these seem to be finer than the ones strung together in the packages. I then strip it and tie it in by the tip at the point I believe it starts to get less fragile/brittle. Then wind the wraps closely and make sure to leave a consistent spacing. I coat mine with some clear polish afterwards to seal it, this also seems to allow quill bodies to hold up to more strikes before disintegrating. As with most tying techniques, just take practice to get it looking nice.

I am sure others have some good tips for quill bodies...Not trying to step on any toes.

CR
« Last Edit: December 04, 2008, 22:06:16 PM by CR »
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Offline troutphisher

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2008, 21:19:53 PM »
Rhody,

I used the quill from a peacock eye. The reason I like this quill is the size. The eye's have finer quills for small flies.
If your splitting quills while wrapping them, try soaking them in tepid water. This makes them more pliable and less prone to breaking.

On this particular pattern, I used the last third of the quill section, the wider end. This end can take more tension while wrapping then the thinner or tip end.

I also coated these fly, but didn't for the picture. I tried some thing new, super glue. It drys fast, but you have to very careful while applying it. I used a pin feed bottle, and was able to control the flow of the liquid glue.

I like to also coat fly's with Griff's fly tyeing multi coat. it also dry's fast and is very thin, not messy at all.

On this size fly, I use a lighted magnifying light, to see each wrap, and try to wrap them touching, or a slight overlap to get the stripe of the quill edge, that gives the fly a rib look.

When you buy stripped quills, sometimes they are not completely stripped, you can fix this by using a pencil eraser, and your pulling the quill between your finger nails. This cleans off the fuzzy fibers.

Hope this helps

TP

« Last Edit: December 04, 2008, 21:32:40 PM by troutphisher »
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Offline Rhody

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Re: Midge quill pearl
« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2008, 22:03:47 PM »
Thanks for the help, now if I can just get my eyes working for this smaller stuff.
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J.M.


 

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